Friday, September 13, 2013

An Actual Finished Object

This is the final project for a Craftsy fitting class, using the class-supplied Very Easy Vogue V8815 view B. The class is a video online. I followed the video step by step, using my measurements to customize the package pattern. I got it looking pretty good in the waist and bust, but I’m a difficult fit at the shoulders, and the armscye seemed way too big - both issues that I couldn’t seem to communicate to my online instructor using still images.

I began with using an expensive final fabric, but my fitting issues were such that I sought the advice of the owner of my local fabric store. Apparently she agreed because she literally cut the shirt off of me, leaving a boob hanging out. Thankfully, I had tucked a T-shirt in my sewing bag as I was leaving the house.

I left the fabric store with a destroyed shirt, suggestions for altering, and a bolt of muslin. I returned a week later, then every day after that for about 1 1/2 weeks, until we had the muslin looking close to perfection.

When that was approved, I purchased a few yards of this fabric, a Morris & Company by Barbara Brackman for moda print.

When we finished the muslin fit, we still hadn't worked out the sleeves, so I came in wearing the carefully cut and basted shell in my fashion fabric, with two options for sleeves basted in the armscyes. When the owner of the shop saw the fit of the entire thing, she immediately felt that I had too much fabric in the upper part of the chest and that I should reduce by about 1 1/2", and alter the sleeve cap accordingly.

She also wanted me to reduce ease around the entire body, but this I refused to do because the closure is a back zipper, and the shirt currently has sufficient ease that I can dress and undress myself. If it were tighter, I don't think that would be possible.

I chose not to follow her advice on the upper chest because if I had made that adjustment, I couldn't go back. If that turned out to have been a mistake, I would have had to scrap this version and buy more fabric in a different print. I also was dealing with fit adjustment fatigue, wasn't sure I would have time to make an entirely new version and be able to wear it this season, and I was concerned that if I reduced that ease in the front, it would look out of balance with the rest of the ease of the shirt. (She also wanted me to choose the tighter of the two sleeve cap options, but the other one felt a bit tight so I ignored that advice as well.) I should add, I really really did appreciate all the time and attention my LFS owner gave me. With her help I was able to overcome a significant number of issues.

When it comes down to it, this pattern or style of shirt isn’t one I would have chosen for myself. But, it will make a slightly dressier option than polo shirts for early fall days. And I will apply what I've learned to subsequent projects. One adjustment I made that wasn't for fit but for preference, was to drop the peplum seam from the pattern’s raised waist to a more natural waist.

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